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Friday, June 30, 2017

T-shirt yarn Cross-body bag – Free written pattern




Size:
width cca 38cm x height cca 38cm (15”x 15”), adjustable handle cca 120 cm (48”), shoulder handle drop cca 60 cm (24”) long and cca 3cm (1.2”), the size is really depending on material you’ll use.

You need: 
I used cca 700 grams / 300 meters of  “YarnArt – ribbon”, color no. 757
7mm crochet hook 
Yarn Needle, markers
A sufficient amount off cotton for the lining (you don’t have to use cotton)
30 cm (12”) zipper
Hardware to complete the bag – 2 rings cca 5cm(2”), 2 rings with the hook, buckle cca 3cm(1,2”).

Terms/Abbreviations: I used US terminology
ch       chain 
slst     slip stitch
sc        single stitch
hdc     half double crochet
st        stitch 

Bottom of the purse
Start with the bottom of the purse. It is worked in circular (oval in this case) crochet method, beginning at center of the oval. Slst. join at end of each round. Don’t turn, but continue in same direction.

























Begin by crocheting a chain of 25 + 1 ch, follow the chart above or the written instructions bellow.
Round 1: (Blue) Sc into the 2nd ch from the hook, 2sc into the same stitch, make sc into each of next 23 ch, 5 sc into last ch stitch. Do not turn - keep going around and make sc into each of next 23 ch, 2 sc into the last stitch (it’s the stitch where you have 3 sc already). Slst. to finish the round. Do not turn.

Round 2: (Orange) Ch1, work 3 sc into the same stitch, 3sc into next stitch, make sc into each of next 25 sc, 3sc into next stitch, 3sc into next stitch, 3sc into next stitch, make sc into each of next 25 sc, 3sc into next stitch, slst. into 1st ch1 to finish the round.

Round 3: (Green) Ch1, work 3 sc into the same stitch, sc into each of next 2 stitches, 3sc into next stitch, make sc into each of next 27 sc, 3sc into next stitch, sc into each of next 2 stitches, 3sc into next stitch, sc into each of next 2 stitches, 3sc into next stitch, make sc into each of next 27 sc, 3sc into next stitch, sc into each of next 2 stitches, slst. into 1st ch1 to finish the round.

Round 4: (Red) Ch1, work 3 sc into the same stitch, sc into each of next 4 stitches, 3sc into next stitch, make sc into each of next 29 sc, 3sc into next stitch, sc into each of next 4 stitches, 3sc into next stitch, sc into each of next 4 stitches, 3sc into next stitch, make sc into each of next 29 sc, 3sc into next stitch, sc into each of next 4 stitches, slst. into 1st ch1 to finish the round.

I ended the bottom of the bag here. That gave me width of the bag cca 38cm/15”. You can do a row or two more for longer bag or row or two less for shorter one. It’s really up to you.

Body of the purse
I worked in rounds. Sc into every sc from the bottom of the bag. I can’t remember exactly how many rounds I did. It doesn’t really matter. I finished mine when the body was cca 38cm (15”) high. Again, you can make your bag longer or shorter by adding or reducing the number of rows. Fasten off.

























Adjustable handle 
It is cca 120 cm (48”) long and cca 3cm (1.2”) wide.
Ch 130, hdc into the 3rd ch from the hook, hdc into the same stitch, make hdc into each of next ch, 5 hdc into last ch stitch. Do not turn - keep going around and make hdc into each of next ch, 2 hdc into the last stitch (it’s the stitch where you have 2 hdc and ch2  already). Slst. to finish the round.
 


Shoulder handle
This handle is constructed out of three pieces, two shorter and one longer.

The shorter bits are cca 10cm (4”) long and cca 3cm (1.2”) wide. Ch 12, hdc into the 3rd ch from the hook, hdc into the same stitch, make hdc into each of next ch, 5 hdc into last ch stitch. Do not turn - keep going around and make hdc into each of next ch, 2 hdc into the last stitch (it’s the stitch where you have 2 hdc and ch2 already). Slst. to finish the round. Make two of them.

The longer part is cca 60 cm (24”) long and cca 3cm (1.2”) wide. Ch 65, hdc into the 3rd ch from the hook, hdc into the same stitch, make hdc into each of next ch, 5 hdc into last ch stitch. Do not turn - keep going around and make hdc into each of next ch, 2 hdc into the last stitch (it’s the stitch where you have 2 hdc and ch2 already). Slst. to finish the round.

Zipper:

























I’m adding zippers to most of my bags and purses. You can find two options of how to add the zipper in these two free links bellow:
I used a little bit thinner yarn, of a similar color around the zipper.

Lining:
I put a lining in my bag.  I sewed it on machine and sewed it in by hand, to the second last round of the purse’s body. I suppose, you can sew the lining by machine. The lining is not really necessary, as the bag is strong enough on its own.

Assembling:
I found a shoulder bag at my local charity store. I didn’t like it, but the hardware on it was in excellent condition, just perfect for my project. I am sure if you look around your local charity stores you can find plenty of bags with interesting and/or nice rings, hooks and buckles for a fraction of the price you would pay if you would buy it separately. 
Assemble the bag as you can see on the picture below.


There it is. You should have a nice bag now or an inspiration for one at least.
If you come up with any problems or difficulties, write to me, and I’ll be more than happy to help.

Have a nice week
Clara


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